Feline Housesoiling

Katherine A. Houpt, VMD, Ph.D., Dipl. ACVB, Certified Applied Animal Behav\iorist, Animal Behavior Clinic, College of Veterinary Medicine, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14852

We do not know why some cats refuse, on occasion, to use the litter pan. There are two things that predispose to it: the natural behavior patterns of the cat and urinary tract problems. Free-ranging cats rarely eliminate in the same place twice and rarely eliminate where another cat has eliminated. We are, therefore, asking cats to do something quite unnatural, i.e. to use the same place again and again, day in and day out, and often to share that place with another cat. In fact, it is surprising that more cats do not refuse to use their litter. A cat with urinary tract infection or calculi (stones) is in pain when it urinates. The cat will tend to avoid places where it has been hurt and, therefore, it avoids the litter pan as the location where it has felt discomfort. All cats that urinate outside the litter box should be examined by their veterinarians for urinary tract problems and medically treated if appropriate. Other reasons for failing to use the litter pan are aversion to the litter, the box or its location or a preference for a different location or a different surface on which to eliminate. These preferences and aversions are sometimes related to the cat's covering behavior. shemay not like to dig in a particular litter with her paws.

1. Litter hygiene. Clean the litter pans daily if the litter has been used at all. Non-clumping litter should be completely discarded every day if it was used at all. Clumping litter should be cleaned with a slotted spoon daily taking care to get every bit of urine. Discard all the clumping litter at least every 2 weeks and wash the pan with a dilute solution of chlorine bleach. Do not use ammonia or ammonia-like cleaners because these smell like stale urine. Do not add deodorants, bicarbonate of soda or anything else to the litter. Most cats will use a shallow layer of litter if it is fresh. If not use a deeper layer.
2. Litter. Offer a cafeteria of litters, one type of litter in each of three pans, for example. Although most cats prefer clumping litter some prefer another type. Try plain and scented (deodorized), clumping litter, plain clay, scented clay, grain based, corncob based, citrus based litter, wood chips (hamster bedding is a convenient form to try), strips of paper or pellets of paper, sand box sand, perlite, potting soil, etc. Record which the cat uses. Some of the commercial litters available are:
   
   
   1. wood - Cedar Lite or Gentle Touch Cat Litter,
   2. paper - Bio-Flush Cat Litter, Care Fresh Cat Litter or Yesterday's News,
   3. grain - Cat works or Litter Mate,
   4. corncob - FieldFresh or Cobby Cat, citrus - CitraFresh,
   5. grass - Cat Country.
      
      
3. Pans. Add more litter pans. Many cats also prefer to use one pan for urination and another for defecation. The pan preferably should not be a covered box because the cover traps the odor. Most cats prefer a large open pan with low sides. If tracking litter is a problem, put the whole box in a larger cardboard box. The pans should be located in a quiet place. The pan should not be under anything that would hinder her movement nor should it be too close to a radiator.
4. Offer a variety of pans - plastic, metal, cardboard, square, round, covered, open or tray so the cat needn't jump in. Some cats will use a very large pan such as that sold at hardware stores for mixing cement.
5. Light. If the cat usually misbehaves at night leave the light on; contrary to popular belief, cats can not see in absolute dark of a house, although they can see better by star- or moon-light than we can. Two pans in the mud room and another in the basement would be best.
6. Confinement. The purpose of confinement is to protect the areas whereshehas soiled and to determine which litter or box the cat prefers. It is not punishment. Confinement is particularly helpful in multi-cat households so you can determine which cat is using which litter. It can also be helpful to habituate the cat to using litter again when there is nothing thatsheprefers to use. For that reason, confinement in a noncarpeted area (ifshehas been soiling on carpet) or a cage big enough for a resting spot, food and the litter pan is necessary. sheshould be confined all of the time (24 hours/day) untilsheis using the litter, and then released under supervision or on a leash.
7. Punishment. Do not punish the cat. If punishment were successful we would not be treating so many cats for the problem. Punishment after the moment that the cat is eliminating is ineffective. Ifsheis just beginning to squat you may startle him with a loud noise. If urine or feces are found do not scold or hit the cat. Do not isolate him.
8. Cleaning rugs. Clean the spot thoroughly with one of the bacterial enzyme products that are now available. 
9. Aversion. To discourage the cat from using an area she has previously soiled, putting dishes of dry food in the area will usually keep him from soiling. If you wish to limit her intake of the food it can be glued to the saucer. Protect valuable objects with heavy plastic sheets, a vinyl tablecloth, or a plastic hall runner with the nubby side up. Citrus odor or strong scented soap rubbed on the rug may deter the cat from using a particular area.
10. Records. Keep a daily record of her behavior, noting usage of litter boxes and which contain urine and which feces (bowel movements), number of episodes of housesoiling, as well as time and location of housesoiling. From such a diary, we can determine whether your efforts are successful or detect a pattern that will help us to advise you.

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